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Accessories and Anchors
Installation Instructions
System Components Print this page
Headed Anchors (HT-1)
Stage Brackets (R-30-K-30 or 42) and (U-30-K-30 or 42)
Safety Stanchion (S-3-42)
Equipment Needed
Go No-Go Gauge (C-4)
Right Angle Grinder
Brass Footplate Template (FP-3)
Stud Welding Machine with Gun
Bending Tool (BT-40)
Torque Bridge Testing Tool (TB-10)
Adjustable Torque Wrench -10-150 ft. lbs.
1-1/8” Socket
Hydraulic Load Cell Tester (TBTW-10)
¼” Allen Wrench
Ratchet Wrench
Equipment Adjustment -Required at the start of each work shift
  1. Set the stud welding equipment to factory recommendations for shooting headed anchors with 5/8” base diameters.
  2. Attach the Brass Footplate Template to the adjustable legs on the stud welding gun.
  3. Secure the Headed Anchor with its ceramic ferrule in the welding gun chuck and adjust the Brass Footplate so that the shank of the Headed Anchor sticks out 3/16” beyond the ferrule. (This “stick-out” is critical to ensure proper penetration and weld strength).
  4. Shoot and test 5 “test anchors” on material similar to the base metal before starting production welding.
    Visually inspect the “test anchors” for weld quality (there should be a full 360° flash around the anchor). Apply a bend test using the Bending Tool by fitting the tool’s notched end over each “test anchor” and bending it down until the head of the anchor touches the base metal. If the anchor fails the bend test, adjust welding equipment and continue to test until anchors are satisfactorily tested.
  5. Calibrate the Torque Bridge Testing Tool & Adjustable Torque Wrench
    1. Clamp the Hydraulic Load Cell to a stable surface.
    2. Set the Adjustable Torque Wrench to 95 ft. lbs. as a preliminary setting.
    3. Fit the Torque Bridge Testing Tool onto the anchor of the Hydraulic Load Cell, ensuring that it is totally engaged.
    4. Tighten the nut on the Torque Bridge Testing Tool, using the Adjustable Torque Wrench with a 1 1/8” socket, until the Torque Wrench reaches the 95 ft. lb. setting.
    5. Read the gauge on the Load Cell. The required reading is 10,000 lbs. If the reading is less than 10,000 lbs., adjust Torque Wrench above 95 ft. lbs.; if more than 10,000 lbs., adjust Torque Wrench below 95 ft. lbs. Never set Torque Wrench to exceed a reading of 12,000 lbs.
    6. Continue adjusting Torque Wrench up or down until a consistent 10,000 lb. reading is achieved.

      (Note: After this calibration, keep Torque Bridge Testing Tool and Torque Wrench together as a set. Do not interchange with other Testing Tools/Torque Wrenches, as this will invalidate test readings).
    7. Confirm the calibration of the Torque Wrench and accompanying Testing Tool at the start of each work shift.
This is a life support system, so it is critical to FOLLOW THE DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS BELOW to ensure the safe and accurate installation of each bracket.
Installation Outline

Installation of each Button-Lok Staging Bracket takes less than 2 minutes from start to finish. There are 6 steps:

  1. Identify bracket and headed anchor locations
  2. Grind base metal
  3. Shoot 2 headed anchors
  4. Inspect & proof-test headed anchors
  5. Hang bracket on anchors and tighten set screw
  6. Fit safety stanchion into bracket socket
Installation Instructions
  1. Identify Bracket and Headed Anchor Locations. (Brackets are generally installed 8 feet apart).
    Place the Go No-Go Gauge on the base metal where the bracket is to be installed.
    Mark the base metal where the 2 Go No-Go Gauge notches are. These marks identify where the anchors will be shot.
  2. Grind Base Metal
    Grind the base metal at these 2 marked points. Grind each area roughly the size of a quarter. (Grinding is required to minimize impurities and ensure a good weld).
  3. Shoot 2 Headed Anchors
    Secure a Headed Anchor and ferrule in the welding gun chuck.
    Shoot this first anchor in the left-side clean spot on the base metal.
    Chip away the ceramic ferrule.
    Secure the second Headed Anchor and ferrule in the chuck.
    Fit the notched end of the Brass Footplate into the first, shot anchor. (This will locate the exact position for the second anchor within the right-side clean spot).
    Shoot the second anchor and chip away its ferrule.
  4. Inspect and Proof-test Headed Anchors
    Visually inspect each shot anchor. Check that there is no undercutting and ensure that there is a full 360? flash around the anchor shank. The shaft of the anchor should be perpendicular to the base metal.
    Use the Go No-Go Gauge to ensure correct weld penetration by checking the distance between the head of the anchor and the base metal. The end of the Gauge marked “GO” should fit between the underside of the anchor’s head and the base metal. Then try to fit the “NO-GO” end between the anchor and the base metal. The “NO-GO” end should not fit. The headed anchor must pass both tests or it must be rejected. If anchors do not pass, reset the plunge or “stick-out” on the welding gun.
    Proof-test headed anchors by fitting the Torque Bridge Testing Tool onto each shot anchor, ensuring that it is full engaged.
    Tighten the tool’s nut with the Torque Wrench until the pre-set ft. lbs. are reached. This applies the required 10,000 lb. tension load to the anchor. Keep the tension on the anchor for 10 seconds.
    Every Headed Anchor must be proof-tested.
  5. Hang Bracket on Anchors & Tighten Set Screw
    Fit the slotted holes in the base plate of the bracket onto the 2 anchors.
    Lock the bracket into place by tightening the base plate’s set screw with a ¼” allen wrench.
    If installing Universal Brackets, adjustments can be made at this time. Turning the long bolt on the underside of the bracket arm either clockwise or counter-clockwise makes minor adjustments. Removing the bolt in the bracket’s knee brace; realigning the bolt holes in the 2 telescoping sections of the knee brace and refitting the bolt make larger adjustments.
  6. Fit Safety Stanchion into Bracket Socket and Secure with clevis pin & clip or bolt & nut
Bracket Removal
To remove brackets, simply loosen set screws and lift bracket off the anchors. If anchor removal is required, the most efficient method is to burn them off as close as possible to the base metal. Then grind to remove the remainder.

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